JR Oga Line (Oga Namahage Line)
The story begins at Akita Station.
Inspired by last year’s game, "Akita Oga Mystery Tour: Frozen Silver Flower," I traveled to Akita at the year’s end with the sole aim of meeting the Namahage.
The lonely winter landscape of the north is a source of longing for a city boy like me, and my heart was racing with excitement.
And the vibrant red body of the E6 series added to the excitement.
By the time I arrived at Akita Station, I was hyped up and thirsty from all the excitement.
At a time like this, what I need is a drink. Yes, let's go for a drink.
With that thought, I ventured into Akita's night to find a bar, beginning what we called our "investigation meeting."
Not far from Akita Station, I found a place called “Akita Nagaya Sakaba.”
This bar was the model for the “Akita Tavern” in the game.
In the game, there’s a scene where the protagonist detective gathers information and organizes his thoughts over Akita’s delicious food at this bar.
Preparing for our trip to Oga the next day, we held our own "investigation meeting" here. It wasn’t real detective work, but planning our journey was an adventure in itself.
And then...
To my surprise, a Namahage figure was standing right in front of the bar like a gatekeeper.
Wait, are you a Namahage or a guardian statue? Which is it?
Making a cheeky joke to myself about the local protector, I entered.
The bar’s entrance was surprisingly low.
So low, I had to crouch through the sliding door at waist height.
That uniquely low entrance gave my back an unpleasant “crack,” but the promise of good drinks helped me ignore it and step inside.
Seated on the tatami, the waiter offered a hand towel.
In the game, players know you can choose between a “cold” or “hot” hand towel.
Without hesitation, I chose a “hot” one and scrubbed my oily, tired skin with gusto.
It felt so refreshing.
Local specialties like hatahata (sailfin sandfish) and kiritanpo, as well as plenty of Akita’s sake, were available.
Across from the bar, there’s Sugaku Saketen, a sake shop offering hard-to-find Akita sake brands.
My wife and I ended up buying seven 720ml bottles and had them shipped to our home.
The next day, we left our hotel in Akita City, ready to start sightseeing. Our destination was Port Tower Selion.
Under an incredibly overcast sky, we arrived at Port Tower Selion.
I wonder if it's true that Akita has the shortest daylight hours in Japan.
And wow, the wind is so strong it stings my face.
By the way, Selion is called "Orion" in the game.
Feels like a breeze from Okinawa, huh?
We decided to go up the observation deck at Selion for a panoramic view of Akita City.
While searching for the elevator...
Behold, a model of Selion at 1/150 scale! Perfect N-gauge size!
This would look amazing on my model railway layout! Although, it might be a bit big...
Anyway, we took the elevator up to the observation deck.
The first sight was Akita Port Station—a freight station that sometimes serves cruise passengers too.
Looking around, there were clouds and the sea.
The winter scenery of the Sea of Japan was right in front of us.
The area around Akita Port has huge wind turbines for generating wind energy.
Offshore turbines are still being connected, so their power supply will be coming soon.
After the observation deck, we headed to the Selion rest area.
There, we found a famous Selion specialty—udon and soba from a vending machine!!!
Oh, I remember this!
I think I saw actress Nozomi Sasaki say on TV, “It’s delicious!”
Unfortunately, it was being restocked, but I bought a cup noodle version as a souvenir from the nearby shop.
And the taste? Well... it was... okay, I guess.
Nozomi, you liar!
Leaving Selion, we headed toward Oga.
Passing the wild Sea of Japan, we saw more giant wind turbines along the way.
Wait, what’s that?!
At the Oga Tourist Information Center, a huge Namahage greeted us—just like in the game.
Taking a break at Road Station Oga, we saw a level crossing.
This crossing relic was originally on the old Oga Line at Funagawa Port and was relocated here.
Nearby, there’s a tsunami evacuation facility called “Agare.”
Akita folks have a good sense of humor too.
After Road Station Oga, we headed toward Unosaki Coast.
This area gets busy with beachgoers in the summer.
They say its shallow waters are the “Uyuni Salt Flats of Akita.”
That sounds like a bit of an exaggeration.
Gazing at the sea, I had my doubts.
In addition to the “Uyuni Salt Flats,” there’s also a “Godzilla Rock” formation nearby.
However, the wind was too strong that day, so we couldn’t get close.
Driving through the mountainous coastline, looking out over the turbulent winter sea, I saw a view where the horizon seemed curved.
The scenery was so breathtaking that I forgot to take a picture.
We visited the Oga Aquarium GAO and had lunch at its restaurant, Flutto.
I ordered ramen with “gibasa,” a famous Akita seaweed.
It was delicious!!
It was unexpectedly tasty—three times better than I anticipated.
Honestly, a thousand times better than vending machine udon.
Next, we arrived at Nyudozaki Lighthouse on the 40th parallel north.
The winter lighthouse looked stunning.
Standing tall in the harsh wind, it seemed like a lonely poet.
The raw power of nature, and the smallness of humanity in its presence.
A single tear ran down my cheek. Though it’s really just the wind.
Finally, we reached the destination where I could meet the Namahage.
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The Namahage Museum! Yes, this is the place.
Inside, rows of Namahage masks, each with a unique expression and stance, create an impressive scene.
However, being New Year's season, the Namahage were on duty in their communities, so some masks were replaced with photos.
People usually imagine Namahage with red or blue, demon-like faces, but there are green, brown, and silver Namahage as well.
Their varied expressions and colors reflect the unique traditions of each area.
Some are cute, some funny, and some eerie. Their designs vary widely.
The term Namahage is said to come from “namomi-hagi” or “peeling the namomi,” which are burn marks that form when lazy people warm themselves by the fire.
The Namahage is a kind of warning: if you laze around by the hearth too much, the Namahage will come to peel off your “namomi” with a knife.
Of all the Namahage, this one is my favorite.
At the Oga Shinzan Folklore Museum next to the Namahage Museum, you can witness a live Namahage performance.
The performance was superb, with children crying or freezing in fear, while adults laughed at the Namahage's banter. It was incredible.
We concluded our Namahage tour with a visit to Shinzan Shrine, near the museum.
Snow added a solemn feel to the shrine.
Dedicated to Namahage, a large ceremonial knife is displayed.
Inscribed with “National Railway Tsuchizaki Factory Blacksmith.” A true railway heritage.
It’s amazing how railway elements can pop up in unexpected places for enthusiasts.
The day was ending, and we were getting hungry.
We would stay in Oga for the night and eagerly awaited a good drink.
After a hot bath to warm up, dinner was ready—a famous Oga dish, stone-boiled hotpot.
The preparation method is unique.
First, crab and fish are added to a miso soup in a wooden tub.
Then, red-hot stones are plunged in, boiling the miso soup and filling the air with the aroma of seafood.
The broth was amazing! Perfect with the local sake.
We enjoyed Akita's sake well into the night.
Finally, we ended our journey with a ride on the EV-E801 ACCUM on the Oga Line.
The train conductor warned, “Don’t get your head stuck!”
This concludes our pilgrimage tour inspired by the game "Frozen Silver Flower." Hope you enjoyed it.
Cheers to more adventures in 2023!!
Though I doubt anyone is reading this remote personal blog in the Reiwa era!
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