Drinking with a Train View (Enoden Edition)

[Off to Rainy Enoshima]

In July, on a cloudy day still under the rainy season, I casually headed towards Enoshima.

I boarded the monorail at Ofuna and rode it to the end.

Upon arrival at Shonan-Enoshima Station, the station interior had been noticeably modernized since before.

There was an adorable Plarail display at the station, featuring an Enoden train.

[Enoden Biker]

Just a short distance from Shonan-Enoshima Station is the curve on the shared track section between Enoshima and Koshigoe, made famous by the legendary "Biker" story.

The "Biker" refers to a foreign man on a bicycle who suddenly appeared in front of a group of train enthusiasts on August 5, 2021, who had gathered to photograph Enoden's 300 series train 305 formation on a test run after inspection and repainting.

He has since become an urban legend in Shonan.

305 formation happened to come by.

I walked along the Koshigoe Shopping Street and headed toward Kamakura-Kokomae Station.

Outside Fresh Store YAOMINE, the local grocery store, there was a gacha machine.

It was noted to be sold by Enoshima Friends Kindergarten.

It’s rare for a kindergarten to sell something like this.

[Looking for Glimpses of Trains, Heading to the Sea]

Past Koshigoe, the train weaves through gaps between houses and temples.

If you look down the alleyways, you can catch brief glimpses of the train peeking out – this is the essence of Enoden’s charm.

The view suddenly opens up, and the Shonan sea stretches out before you.

Unfortunately, it’s a cloudy sky, but on the opposite side in the photo, you can see Enoshima and, on clear days, Mount Fuji.

[Kamakura-Kokomae’s Current State and Over-Tourism]

As I approach Kamakura-Kokomae Station, the crowd noticeably increases. Many are Chinese tourists.

For the past few years, Kamakura-Kokomae has been flooded with visitors, inspired by the manga "Slam Dunk."

I've heard that it has been affecting the daily lives of local residents.

With the Shonan sea to my right, I contemplate the issue as Kamakura-Kokomae Station comes into view.

The Kamakura-Kokomae No.1 crossing, right next to the station, is indeed filled with tourists.

However, this has negatively impacted people who use the station regularly for commuting. This is known as over-tourism.

Let’s all make sure to avoid inconveniencing others in our travels.

[Feeling Thirsty]

Realizing it’s already 3 PM.

I had missed lunch today.

Leaving Kamakura-Kokomae Station, I decided to return to the Koshigoe Shopping Street.

Despite the cloudy sky, it’s quite hot. Time to find a place to quench my thirst with a drink.

I found a place called Kamakura Namihei.

It serves fresh shirasu (whitebait) bowls and oden.

Best of all, it’s right along the train line, making it an ideal spot for a train view.

[Let’s Drink with a Train View]

As I stepped inside, I seemed to be the only customer. First up, a beer.

I’m glad to see my favorite Red Star beer here.

I ordered the Namihei set meal for 2,750 yen (tax included).

It’s okay to indulge in a late solo lunch once in a while.

The chef’s recommendation today was marbled flathead sashimi – a high-end summer fish rarely seen in supermarkets. The texture was firm and delicious.

This squid is also rich and sweet. And the fresh shirasu, which I hadn’t had in a while, was also excellent. The beer kept flowing.

As I enjoyed my meal and the fresh shirasu with beer, I pondered the crowded scenes around Kamakura-Kokomae Station.

[Are Chinese Tourists Really Rude?]

Today, I did see tourists standing in the middle of the road, placing cameras into people’s gates, and entering restricted areas, and many of them were Chinese.

I must clarify that I am by no means a racist.

I live by the words of Brother Leroy from Hisashi Inoue's "Handshake," who said, "Do not believe in things like Japanese, Canadians, or Americans. There are only individuals, and that’s all there is."

Moreover, my esteemed professor, Dr. Wu, during my university days, was Chinese and a highly honorable person, and the lady at the snack bar I frequent is from Harbin and a kind person.

While "Slam Dunk" is globally popular and not all tourists are Chinese, why do Chinese tourists often receive criticism in Japan?

The primary reason could be the nature of the Chinese language itself.

Chinese has four tones, where the same sound has different meanings based on pitch.

For example, “妈” (mā: mother), “麻” (má: hemp), “马” (mǎ: horse), “骂” (mà: scold).

In Japanese, all of these would be “ma,” but in Chinese, tonal pronunciation is essential for meaning.

Thus, speaking Chinese requires clarity and volume, which may sound loud to non-speakers, leading some to mistake it for arguing.

Secondly, cultural differences play a part.

For instance, Chinese diners often leave bones or shells on the table, a common practice in China.

Additionally, smoking and littering habits differ significantly between Japan and China.

Chinese people are also less inclined to apologize quickly, as apologizing in China signifies an acknowledgment of fault, taken very seriously.

From a Chinese perspective, Japanese people, who apologize frequently, might seem insincere or evasive.

Thirdly, national political dynamics add complexity.

Japan’s wariness of China stems partly from their one-party political structure and territorial disputes, like over the Senkaku Islands.

However, younger generations in both countries tend to have a more positive impression of each other, giving hope for the future.

[Thank You for the Meal]

Reflecting on these thoughts, I realized my beer was gone. Perhaps one more large bottle.

The sound of Enoden trains passing occasionally is pleasant.

After finishing two large bottles and my meal, I felt full and content. It was time to head back.

With a tipsy step, I returned to the “Biker” curve and spent some time watching the trains pass by.

I bought some Enoden-themed sweets and a local gacha as souvenirs from Ogiya.

Now, where should I go for my next drink? The journey continues.